A day at the dentist; an evening with a con artist; chicken buses: I don’t have enough words or pictures to write a full entry about all of these, so please accept, instead, this entry of mini-stories.
Lake Atitlan is surrounded by relatively isolated small towns, each becoming known in its own way as a tourist destination. San Pedro is for the druggies, San Marcos is for yoga and hippies, and Santa Cruz is tiny and mostly just to relax. I stayed a few days in San Pedro, learning weaving and meeting Diego, the famous chocolatier, but I soon moved on to Santa Cruz. It was there that I met one of the most interesting characters of my trip to date. (more…)
Guatemala is well-known for the Lake Atitlan: deep, crystal-blue waters ringed by deep blue volcanoes. Aldous Huxley called it the most beautiful lake in the world, and amazing pictures of it grace every Guatemalan guidebook and travel website. I won’t lie; it isn’t as stunning in rainy season when everything goes dull gray, and the light gray clouds roll in over the dark gray mountains overlooking the churning gray water. Still, I spent five days in various small towns on the lake’s edge relaxing, reading book after book, meeting American travelers and con artists, learning to weave, and best of all, visiting a small kitchen in which amazing chocolates are created. (more…)
I’ve been pretty busy since Antigua, and yes, I am still alive! Unfortunately with the loss of my computer I haven’t been able to upload any pictures or spend much time writing entries. Here’s a quick update of where I’ve been since my last full entry… consider a hint of things to come:
Mmm, some of the sweets in Guatemala were excellent. I’ve already mentioned briefly my favorite, a cinnamon and almond flavored paste, encasing a single roasted almond, all glazed in sugar. The paste was so rich it tasted like cookie dough, and the coating of sugar helped add a little delicious sweetness. I actually returned to the store two more times to buy more of these delicate little treats (called Yemas de San Leandro) and am even now regretting not buying more. But what else was there? (more…)
The day started early. Alarm set at 2:45 AM, out the door at 3. Flores is deserted, shops closed and houses boarded up. Walking through the darkened streets, I find the empty shuttle and climb aboard. In a few minutes it will be packed full, people sitting on the floor and squeezed against the door. We ride through the jungle but everyone is sleeping. Then, we are in Tikal, walking quickly to beat the sunrise, climbing and climbing hills, with light beginning to ease out from under the mist, the trees full of screeching birds and buzzing insects. Up hundreds of stairs, and we are almost there, almost to the top of the highest temple where we can watch the sun rise over the ruins. (more…)
On a street near the town center in Antigua is a small, white store. Inside, the wood is polished, the walls covered with ceramic dishes and, oddly, owls. Glass display cases gleam. Flowers, candles, crucifixes, and grandfather clocks serve as decorations for the neatly ordered wares. Customers jostle for position while aproned women, their faces framed by pressed paper headbands, carefully take orders and package boxes. Behind the counter, lines of sweets seduce me. (more…)
Malena loves candy. And travel. And both together. And thus, this site was born.

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