Visit to Saigon

In Ho Chi Minh City, I visited a number of sobering tourist sites related to the Vietnam War. Pictures from the War Museum showed a city utterly destructed; the caption often revealed it was near the peaceful, friendly Central Highland route I bicycled through.  One special exhibition on war photographers killed during the Vietnam War, titled “Requiem”, was simply amazing. It showcased the pictures taken by photographers on both sides - often just before they were killed. Some of these pictures are incredible, and the exhibition really brings to life all the youth and dreams lost in this war - represented by talented photographer after photographer.  Furthermore, the exhibition (supported by the University of Kentucky) was balanced; the pictures supported neither one side nor the other.  Indeed, whether North Vietnamese, American, UK, or Russian, they showed how “War is Hell” time and time again.

I don’t mean to make my time in Vietnam sound depressing.  This is not a nation that looks backward; the Vietnamese look forward with hope.  To most, the war is an afterthought.  They no longer define themselves by it - this is not a nation that holds a grudge. I met an old man obviously still troubled by the war.  He was drinking, mumbling, yelling at me in Vietnamese.  His teenage grandchildren were obviously mortified, pulling me away, taking me to show me their karaoke machine and laptop computer while apologizing.  “I love you!” was a refrain little kids would yell, flashing peace signs and cheering, as I biked by. The resilience of the Vietnamese hopefully speaks to the resilience of the human race as a whole, especially (I hoped, often, I biked through the thriving cities and friendly towns) those countries the US is bombing today.

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01
Peter
posting from United States
October 11th, 2009 8:07 pm

Amazing post! I’m sad you won’t be home for Christmas, but looking forward to living vicariously through your travels / travails.

02
Peter
posting from United States
October 11th, 2009 8:07 pm

Amazing post! I’m sad you won’t be home for Christmas, but looking forward to living vicariously through your travels.

03
Peter
posting from United States
October 11th, 2009 8:08 pm

x2 post? :(

04
posting from United States
October 11th, 2009 8:12 pm

Whoa, I got all excited at having three comments already, and they were all you! :( I suppose I can just delete the extras…

05
Jeanne in Michigan
posting from United States
October 12th, 2009 6:01 am

When I was in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, I was standing reading my map, when I felt soft little fingers tickling the back of my waist and a man unhooked my fanny pack, turned and prepared to jump on a waiting motorbike. But, I lunged for him, grabbed him and then my pack and tore it from him with much anger, and he glared at me and rode off on the back of the motorbike. I was so angry/rattled, I pounded a plastic restaurant table nearby, and the owner came running out mad at me. That was a tough day. I remember this museum that you show here, and it was very upsetting/disturbing to me. I collected postage stamps during my years of traveling and Vietnam had small children selling books filled with them on the streets for a few dollars, and I bought a bunch of them. Also, liked the pointed hats many tourists bought. I sped around the city on the back of motorbike taxis which was quite scary. Also, found massage parlors with wonderful massages for $5/hour including shower/robe and the woman would hang from ceiling beams to walk on your back, that was unusual experience. Also remember a market with strange food in bottles (different meats). Bought pretty papers and stationery. This was 1996 which seems like yesterday, though already 13 years ago.

06
Tey
posting from Mexico
October 12th, 2009 7:32 am

Amazing post! I’m sad you won’t be home for Christmas, but living vicariously through your travels.

07
posting from United States
October 15th, 2009 7:56 am

This is a beautiful post and I want to thank you for sharing your experience and feelings about it.

08
posting from United States
October 21st, 2009 12:19 am

Thanks Jeanne, Tey, and Pam - I’m glad this post resonated with you.

Jeanne - those are amazing stories! It sounds like were there just after they started letting Western tourists in again - it sounds like many things have stayed the same, but I imagine there have been changes as well (for example Vietnam is exceptionally well connected now - everyone has cell phones, internet cafes are commonplace, TVs are common…)

The thing that surprised me was how few people were angry or upset about the war.

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