Out of India… But Where Next?

Well, I spent about 6 weeks in India and left, I’ll admit it, a little early. For one thing, they don’t really “do” candy.  For another, I (sorry!) didn’t really like India.  I know, I know… all  travelers are supposed to have love/hate relationships with the country, eventually falling in love with the “realness” and grittiness and color and spice that is Incredible!ndia.  And if you don’t fall in love with it, it’s because you didn’t stay long enough to get over the dirt and smell and shit and urine and hassle and pollution and meet the “true India.”  Eh.

Banana Man
Banana Man
I was lukewarm about the place.  To me, the Middle East is more of a love/hate thing, where I hated the hassle and government and anti-woman religion, but loved the kindness and hustle/bustle and food and sweets.  India was just… well, a lot of annoyance (hassle, dirt, rats, shit, urine, pollution, begging) mixed with some bad food (alas, Indian food IN INDIA is not very good!) mixed with my getting sick A LOT mixed with some pretty cool tourist sites - temples with erotica carved right in with the gods and elephants, a hazy early morning visit to the Taj Mahal, bodies burning on the Ganges, a bumpy camel ride through sand dunes, some Bollywood movies, and some good cheap shopping.

 

In many ways India was easier than I thought it would be.  The train transport is excellent, and it’s incredibly easy to meet other westerners in train stations (just look for the white person surrounded by a crowd of staring Indians!)  I met a lot of nice travelers, but some (no one I traveled with!) were very annoying, either claiming that India was the be-all end-all of travel and if you didn’t stay at least six months you weren’t giving it a fair shot, or (even worse!) going on and on about the spirituality of the ashrams and finding yourself and… UGH. I wouldn’t say I hated India, and I really enjoyed some things.  But at the end I was glad to leave (early.)

 

Varanasi
Varanasi
In the future, I’ll write a little about some of the things I did in India.  For now, let’s just say I’m glad to be out of there - and hopefully I enjoy the rest of the trip more!

 

And, now I’m in Bangkok.  I’m thinking of yet again reworking my plane tickets and dropping China off entirely.  Instead, I’ll spend some extra time in Southeast Asia, visiting Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, and maybe Indonesia or the Philippines.  Any suggestions?

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01
posting from Great Britain (UK)
January 27th, 2009 3:18 am

Great post Malena, I actually think it takes some courage and honesty to admit you just don’t like somewhere - lots of people see it some kind of failing that you & place never quite hit it off (especially if it’s one of their favourite places). I’ve been lectured several times for my dislike of Italy, which apparently is tantamount to sacrilege.

SEA is great though - I can heartily recommend Laos. It may look small, and not have as many famous places as its neighbours, but it’s a truly incredible country. I spent three weeks their last christmas, thinking that would be enough, and loved it so much I’m planning to return for another 4 or 5 next year as part of my RTW trip. The pace of life is so calm and relaxing, and the people are so incredibly friendly, it’s a real oasis compared to its neighbours. It’s also not overly touristed once you get away from the main Huay Xai - Luang Prabang - Vang Vieng - Vientiane tourist trail.

Don’t know about the others, but they are all on my to do list, starting with Indonesia this coming october.

02
Mom
posting from United States
January 27th, 2009 7:15 am

Malena
I’d say 6 weeks would count as a good try! I would guess the rat incident would have sent most packing sooner! When I worked with SEA refugees in the late 70’s I heard many stories of missing their homelands–the Hmong of Laos and Cambodians had stories of before the horrors of war and the horrors of war. The Vietnamese had lived with war so long–All of the stories were of survival balanced with beauty or humor of the past. No matter what their age, they all had a story to tell.
Maybe you’ll have more time to tell us more stories!
Love,
Mom

03
posting from United States
January 27th, 2009 8:35 am

I’d say you gave India more of a chance Than I would have! knowing all those things going in, If it hadn’t wow’ed me somehow, I agree, I would have moved on.

As for suggestions, I can only say if you don’t visit China, How about Japan? and also What about Australia/New Zealand?

Cheers,
-Skip

04
posting from United States
January 27th, 2009 9:40 am

I agree with Geoff - Laos is amazing. I entered the country from Vietnam and the difference is immediate! Less noise, friendlier people! Some people I’ve talked to prefered the trekking in Laos rather than Chiang Mai. Even the elephants “looked better”.

If you go to Vietnam, I prefered Hanoi over Ho Chi Minh City, although there are some great day trips out of HCMC - Chu Chi Tunnels and of course the Mekong Delta (coconut candy!). Hoi An is THE place to get custom-made clothes. I wish I would have gotten more made.

Cambodia was just ok to me. It was so hot and humid when I was there that I don’t remember much else.

Have you thought about the Borneo part of Malaysia? I’ve heard good things.

05
abuelita
posting from United States
January 27th, 2009 10:19 pm

Malena: My sister Diana didn’t like India either. I agree with some of the comments that 6 weeks is plenty of time , so don’t apologize. India, like many other countries who are struggling with incredible population growth and many other problems, is a hard country to get to know. I’m sorry you are not going to China because IT IS THE FUTURE! I had recently written to my friend Linell Davis who lives in Nanjing talking about your future visit. I hope you change your mind and visit at least Nanjing where you would have a connection.

Loved your card and happy you are not here in the snowy, icy and yet most beautiful, Western Pennsylvania weather. Take care and be well. Love Abuelita

06
posting from United States
January 29th, 2009 9:57 am

I can’t stand people who try to make you feel bad about not liking India. I liked India but I also really hated it and couldn’t wait to leave.

Myanmar is amazing and was one of my favorite places on my first RTW, but I was there in 2005 so I’m not sure how all the storms and crack downs have changed it.

I spent 3 weeks in Cambodia, 4 in Laos and 3 in Vietnam (and have been to China three times) so let me know if you want any advice. I didn’t like Vietnam because people were very mean to me although Hanoi was okay.

I really like Laos as well and it remains the cheapest daily cost I’ve ever spent… however, that was in 2005 and I’ve heard that it’s way more tourist crowded and has gotten a lot more expensive (although I’m sure it’s still cheap).

You have to go to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, really.

I liked China (sometimes) and it would be a shame to miss out but SE Asia is much easier travel than China. I’m used to it now but when I first got there it was pretty overwhelming. I also think it’s starting to be a bit more Western tourist friendly than it was when I first went.

I have two candy photos from India:

Tabel of candy in Rajastan

Pretty sweets in Southern India (I think Trivandrum). They did not taste good though!

07
posting from United States
January 31st, 2009 7:37 am

I agree that 6 weeks is a very good try to determine if you will be able to like somewhere and admire your sticking to it, inspite of the Delhi Belly! I have friends who have been everywhere (including the Antarctic) and India is the only place they say they would never return to. You’re not alone in your assessment.

08
posting from United States
February 5th, 2009 10:19 am

I really enjoyed reading your post, I would love to be able to travel all over the world it must be a great opportunity to have.

I also have to say 6 weeks in India would probably be enough for me as well. I’m not a big fan of rats! I look forward to reading more!

Emily
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09
Alicia DiBacco
posting from United States
February 6th, 2009 9:40 am

Melena,

Remember Oaxaca? The girl from Erie? Sorry it has taken me so long to find you. The e-mail I had did not work. I am in Pittsburgh now. Your trip sounds too amazing!! I wanted to ask you about Antigua, Guatemala. I know that was so long ago. Please when you have time would you e-mail yoaur thought and suggestions about Antigua. I plan to go this summer to continue my study of Spanish.

Take care and have fun.
Alicia DiBacco from Erie, PA

10
Jennifer aka Maci Miller
posting from United States
February 6th, 2009 9:50 pm

Hi, Malena -
Been to Thailand many times. It is incredible. The people you will find to wonderful, kind, peaceful and warm, the food great, the culture fascinating. GREAT cheap shopping! Check on the Chut-a-chuk weekend market. You can buy ANYTHING there! My Dad is your aunt Lynn’s fiance’ and told me about your blog and travels. Would love to share more about Thailand with you. Will email you privately as my Dad just gave me your email.

All the best and have a wonderful time in SE Asia!

Jen

11
posting from Thailand
February 8th, 2009 4:46 am

Oh my goodness! So many excellent comments to reply to. Thank you everyone for leaving a comment, first of all!

Geoff - Thank you for the suggestion! I’ve had so many recommend Laos to me, I’m definitely keeping it in my itinerary. It’s hard to know how much time to budget there, because as you’ve mentioned there aren’t many big-budget sights, but I find those are usually the best country :) I guess I’ll see how long it takes me to bike through! (And not liking Italy! Blasphemy!)

Mom - Thanks for commenting as always. I’ll try and squeeze more story-writing time into life! I’m hoping to see some of the daily life both as I cycle, of course, and through hill treks and the rest. The next few weeks should be interesting.

Skip - I’m definitely still visiting Japan and Australia! I wouldn’t miss the candy there for the world :)

Stacy - Glad to hear you liked Laos as well. I haven’t heard much good about Vietnam, so I decided to save it for later. Cambodia I probably won’t spend much time in also - as I think I’ll be stealing a lot of my budgeted time there for Laos, as often happens! How did you feel about finishing up your big trip?

Abuelita - In the future I definitely plan to visit China. I was just running out of time to do it justice on this trip… and the 90+ USD visa was going to bust my budget! I’ve heard a number of good things about Southern China and of course the mountain regions, and Beijing, and I can go on!

Megan - Thanks for writing! I might have some questions to email you, especially about Myanmar. It was a country I really wanted to see, but now I’m trying to figure out the logistics of (ack!) biking it. I’m really excited about Laos, and have been loving Thailand. The people here (especially outside the main tourist cities) are incredibly nice, which makes such a big difference. Oh and the food is delicious!

I love the pictures - I tried some of the pretty candy in Kolkata and as you said, didn’t like it much at all. Yet another strike against India!

Pam - Thanks! Parts of India I liked, but I think if I did it again I’d want to be on a much higher budget, like see “luxury India” because quite frankly budget India is pretty awful :) And yeah, the Delhi belly (plus a lot of general travel fatigue, fever, and the rest) did get to me eventually, but I braved it out the last few weeks.

Emily - Thanks for commenting! I’ll check out your websites as well.

Alicia - Glad to hear from you! I sent you an email with my thoughts, hope it went through!

Jen -Thanks for commenting! I replied to your email :)

Whew! Thanks again to everyone for the comments.

12
nandra
posting from Indonesia
February 23rd, 2009 6:13 am

hello malena,

i just recently found your website and am truly inspired by your quest for sweets. it makes me all the more excited for the time in my gap year where i can just travel :D

anyways, i live in indonesia and sweets are just piling up around here haha. come and check it out :)

hope you have a blastin’ trip! :D

cheers,
nandra

13
posting from Laos
February 26th, 2009 5:28 am

nandra - Thank you for commenting! Gap years are really a brilliant invention :)

Hmm, I’m still working out where to go in SE Asia, but if Indonesia is filled with sweets it might be a good addition!

14
posting from India
March 7th, 2009 10:28 pm

hey, sounds like you had a tough time in India..These things happen, hard luck..
enjoy the rest of your travels!

15
posting from China
March 19th, 2009 11:33 pm

chicu - Thanks for the understanding! I think maybe I just went about India in the wrong way and was a maybe a little burned out on travel in general while I was there. Still, I’m not so sure I want to return any time soon and try my luck again!

16
posting from China
March 19th, 2009 11:34 pm

PS - CHINA! I wish!

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