Guatemala is well-known for the Lake Atitlan: deep, crystal-blue waters ringed by deep blue volcanoes. Aldous Huxley called it the most beautiful lake in the world, and amazing pictures of it grace every Guatemalan guidebook and travel website. I won’t lie; it isn’t as stunning in rainy season when everything goes dull gray, and the light gray clouds roll in over the dark gray mountains overlooking the churning gray water. Still, I spent five days in various small towns on the lake’s edge relaxing, reading book after book, meeting American travelers and con artists, learning to weave, and best of all, visiting a small kitchen in which amazing chocolates are created.
Diego is a local Guatemalan who grew up alongside the lake. He has always liked chocolate and a decade ago, came up with an idea. He would make chocolates to sell to the tourists. He had no candy-making background, no family history stretching back generations in the business. People probably thought he was crazy, and even today he guards his ownership of the idea fiercely. When I asked what pushed him into chocolates, he repeated forcefully several times “Diego had an idea. Diego had an idea to make chocolate. My idea.”Ten years ago, with no guidance or training, Diego began experimenting with cacao. He learned how to roast the beans, how to grind them into a smooth paste, to add the sugarcane paste known as panela and a little bit of milk and to sell and market the bars as organic. After a few years of practice, he had stabilized the recipe and began experimenting with flavors; mint, peanut, almond, cacao, coconut, cashew, mint… There are now 14 different flavors. No white sugar, no preservatives. No cocoa oil is leeched off to sell to the cosmetics industry for a profit. Today, Diego produces about 300 bars a day, and imports them all over western Guatemala, to be sold for a profit of about an American quarter.
In San Pedro de la Leguna sits his workroom. Small and sparse, it holds a wooden table, a small desk in a corner, and a few pictures of the different stages of cacao still leaving plenty of open space. On the table giant logs of fresh chocolate rest, some with nuts and raisins already embedded. A rhythmic thumping marks the production of each cigar shaped chocolate log - handmade by Diego. A younger girl wraps the bars in wax paper, dressed in the embroidered Guatemalan traditional white blouse and black skirt. The rich scent of cacao fills the room - of course!
The results are impressive. My first taste of a fresh cacao flavored bar was delicious. Rich, sweet from the panela, with small chunks of cacao beans adding a bit of sharpness to both the flavor and the texture. The chocolate was soft enough to pinch small pieces off and tasted more like fudge than a traditional candy bar. When the bars are freshly made, they’re more delicious than any chocolate I’ve tried thus far on the trip. Unfortunately, as they age they harden and lose some of their soft, fudgy texture. After about three months the bars are no longer good, so eat quickly!
posting from United StatesJune 17th, 2008 4:57 pm
I just watched Chocolat for the 800th time and thought of you. The next time I watch it, I will probably first think of you, and then I will probably think of Diego.
posting from United StatesJune 17th, 2008 6:15 pm
Hey, congratulations on being a certified scuba diver! I love the water but for some reason can’t stand to have the equipment on my face for even just snorkeling so the idea of scuba diving is terrifying. I bet it is really cool though!
posting from United StatesJune 17th, 2008 10:36 pm
Very cool that you went to San Pedro and found candy there! I spent a few months there back in the mid 90s so it was extra cool to read this post
Atitlan is a beautiful area indeed.
posting from Great Britain (UK)June 18th, 2008 2:11 am
I’m going there next year, and that sounds incredible - is Diego easy to find? I will have to look him (and his amazing chocolate) up when I’m there
posting from United StatesJune 18th, 2008 7:25 am
Quieres pan? Pan de canela? Pan de chocolat?
posting from United StatesJune 18th, 2008 10:25 am
How yummy, Malena! Thanks for the vision of gray on gray on gray - and for the taste of such delicious chocolate! I’d love to see your weavings, but am curious about the con artist. Be safe. Have fun. Love - Auntie Quita
posting from NicaraguaJune 18th, 2008 3:03 pm
Thanks everyone! And sorry for the long delay in posts…
But if anyone happens to be in San Pedro, Guatemala, you should be able to find Diego - although maybe not easily! I recommend getting the chocolate fresh rather than buying it in a store - it’s much tastier that way. I just asked some of the locals where the “hombre de chocolate” was, and then once I found out his name, for Diego “de chocolate.” He’s off the main road on a walk to the lake’s edge and I needed to cut through someone’s field to get there, but as long as you keep asking people you’ll get pointed in the right direction.
posting from United StatesJune 18th, 2008 9:13 pm
Hi Malena - thanks for the comments! My break at home has been great and I can’t wait to get back out there in two weeks. I think this break saved my trip! Now I know what works and what doesn’t.
posting from United StatesJune 20th, 2008 8:51 am
Hey Malena,
How did you celebrate your birthday? Hope it was great!!
We are enjoying your trip. It’s the next best thing to doing it ourselves!
Be Safe!
Love ya,
Grandma and Grandpa
posting from RomaniaOctober 7th, 2008 10:54 pm
We could make a scarry movie there because the picture looks a bit spookie.
posting from United StatesJune 2nd, 2009 3:23 pm
[…] the meantime, if you want to find out what it’s like to be in San Pedro (where I am now), Malena has a great post about the place and the lovely artisanl chocolate made here by Diego. I can […]
Malena loves candy. And travel. And both together. And thus, this site was born.

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June 17th, 2008 3:52 pm
Wow! That sounds amazing. I am definately going to have to sponser you just so I can taste some of that amazing chocolate!