The past here in Mexico lies close to the surface. Colonial-built churches, convents and missions on seemingly every corner still influence everyday life. They contrast with the towering pyramids, mysterious statues, and pagan rituals from pre-Columbian civilizations - all of which can be seen and experienced daily in Mexico City and Cholula. And of course modern Mexico, with fast, flashy cars, high-rise buildings, and shiny, expensive, and utterly plastic shopping malls uncomfortably towers over everything.

The Aztec civilization (and the preceding civilizations of the Olmecs and the Teotihuacans) maintained some of their traditions in spite of their defeat in 1521 and the ensuing rule by the Spanish. Indigenous builders often secretly incorporated Aztec symbols such as serpents and eagles in church ornamentation, symbols today seen in the seal on the Mexican flag. In Mexico City, on the square outside of the cathedral and near the recently discovered and excavated Templo Mayor, traditionally dressed men and women offer limpias, or ritual cleansings, where smoke from incense and herbs are waved around a person’s body for the purpose of purification. Beneath the colonial buildings nearby, many more archaeological sites await discovery.

Some consider the churches and government buildings a symbol of Spanish destruction and oppression, to be razed in order to better reconstruct the original Aztec city and understand the mysteries that still remain about their origin. Others believe the colonial buildings are signs of the progress, religion, and decency, and part of the Mexican history in their own right. “Different minds” is how my guide in Cholula described the conflict, while firmly stating his position in favor of the churches. “It is for progress, and civilization, and religion, language and learning. It should stay.”

And then, there are those who ignore the conflict. I have a relative here in Mexico City who has never been to Teotihuaca, has no desire to engage in the Palm Sunday celebrations. She holds that Mexico is moving into the future, into the first world with its streets of luxury car dealerships, the enormous Office Depot warehouse and luxury malls sporting Armani stores. Oftentimes, these new sites take the place of beautiful, richly ornamented colonial buildings.

This tension plays out in the squares of Mexican cities, in the hearts and minds of most Mexican citizens as they struggle with their pride for its continuing modernization and rich cultural heritage. They love the Aztec myths, the beautiful Spanish cathedrals with gold-trimmed alters, and the air-conditioned malls - choosing a favorite is impossible.

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In dulcerias, the shelves are lined with little jars of caramel, crystallized fruits, and pastes of nuts, pumpkin seeds, and sweet potatoes, invented by nuns working in Spanish convents. These discoveries resulted from inventive cookery, applying Old World recipes to New World ingredients (in the case of cajeta) or even as a practical joke (obviously, the camote made of sugared sweet potato.) The colonial-era candy shares space with the pre-Columbian alegrias and palenquetas, bars made of honey and nuts or seeds. Amaranth seeds, the primary ingredient in alegrias, were actually banned by the Spanish government until the 18th century due to their use in constructing pagan images of Aztec gods for use in religious ceremonies, including human sacrifices. Today, this candy has made a comeback and is popular as a sweet, healthy snack.

And of course, there is the omnipresent modern candy. Mass-produced gummies and American imported gums, mints, and sweets have begun to take over the shelves of many candy stores. Vendors offer colorful gummy worms, a product of industrialization, in addition to the alegrias, the jars of cajeta and camotes. Gas stations and convenience stores offer only the new candy - there is no room for the more expensive, handcrafted and uniquely Mexican sweets.

The contrast in Mexico between the colonial and the pre-Columbian, the cathedral and the temple, the cross and the snake can be seen in the shelves of candy stores, while the overwhelming pressures of progress and modernity drive businesses away from the candies of both eras.